14k white gold
Is that ring really worth the price there
asking?
Have you ever wondered where gold obtains its
wide array of colors?
If it is yellow by nature, how do you make it
white?
Gold Karats
As a jewelry consumer, you have probably encountered the term
"karats". 24 karats denotes 100% pure gold. Any karat value below 24
is the amount of pure gold that occupies the
gold jewelry alloy. For
example, 18 karat equals 18/24ths of pure gold which is 75% gold.
Likewise, 14 karat equals 14/24ths of pure gold which is 58.5% gold.
The remaining mixture of non-gold metals are not very important in
determining value, but are primarily used to increase strength and
vary color in gold jewelry.
This variation in karatage value accounts for differences in prices
and colors of gold. The lower the karatage value, the wider the
array of colors and lower the price. 14k gold jewelry generally
ranges from $20-$30 per gram, while 18k gold jewelry ranges from
$27-37 per gram. In addition, properties such as hardness and
durability are enhanced as gold is alloyed, allowing for greater
scratch resistance and less vulnerability to damage.
The most popular karatage for jewelry in the US and Europe is 14k
and 18k. In the Middle East, India, and South East Asia, 22k jewelry
is very popular. In China and Hong Kong, "chuk kam" or pure
gold jewelry of at least 990 fineness is a traditional gift for
special occasions like marriage. (990 fineness means 99% gold)
Fineness is just another way of measuring gold content per thousand
parts. So 18k, which is 75% gold becomes 750 parts of gold per
thousand parts in fineness. Below is a chart that shows the
differences in popular karats.
|
Gold Karatage |
|
Karats |
Parts Gold |
Percentage Gold |
European Fineness |
Preferences |
|
24k |
24/24 |
99.9% |
999 |
China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, "Chuk Kam" |
|
22k |
22/24 |
91.6% |
916 |
India |
|
18k |
18/24 |
75.0% |
750 |
Designer Jewelry |
|
14k |
14/24 |
58.5% |
585 |
Most popular worldwide |
|
10k |
10/24 |
41.7% |
417 |
Minimum in USA |
|
9k |
9/24 |
37.5% |
375 |
UK
Standard |
|
8k |
8/24 |
33.3% |
333 |
Minimum in Germany |
In many countries, the law requires that every item of gold jewelry
be clearly stamped with its karatage. This is often controlled
through hallmarking, a system which originated in London at
Goldsmiths' Hall in the 14th century. US law requires hallmarking of
all gold jewelry and the legal minimum gold karatage is 10k. When
buying gold jewelry, always make sure that it is properly stamped
with the karatage. Also, make sure that you know the karatage and
price when buying
gold jewelry. Although the
color may not differ much, the actual value between 10k and 18k gold
differs greatly.
The answer lies in it's highly malleable
property that allows a skilled jeweler to create new colors and
designs. Jewelers prefer gold to other metals not only for its
brilliance, but ease in which it can be molded and mixed with other
metals. However, pure gold is easily scratched and slightly dull in
color, which limits durability in every day
golden jewelry. Instead, it
is alloyed with other metals, such as copper, silver, nickel,
palladium, and zinc, which increase its strength and its color.
In its purest form of 24 karats, the metal dons a deep, orange shade
of yellow. When fused with other metals, however, its shade will
vary. Copper, being red, will cause gold to become redder. Silver,
zinc, and other white/gray metals will cause it to become paler.
Alloying gold with other metals follows the principle of mixing
colors; therefore, lower karat gold often has a wider array of
colors than higher karat gold because more alloying metals are
added. The most common karats are 24 followed by 14 and then 10.
"Although 24 karat" is gold in it’s purest form it’s also in it’s
softest state. While 10k has been infused with metal it’s
value is diminished but the strength of the gold is significantly
higher then 24k and even 14k.
|
Color |
Composition |
|
Bright Yellow |
Pure Gold, Copper, Fine Silver |
|
White |
Pure Gold, Copper, Nickel, Zinc |
|
Rose |
Pure Gold, Copper |
|
Deep Green |
Gold, Fine Silver, Copper, Zinc |
|
Bright Red |
Pure Gold, Aluminum |
In today's jewelry, traditional yellow gold remains the most
popular, followed by white gold, two-tone gold, and tri-color gold.
Two-tone
gold jewelry is comprised of
yellow gold and white gold. It is versatile because it can match
with any combination of yellow gold, white gold, and platinum.
Tri-color gold is comprised of yellow gold, rose gold, and white or
green gold. Tri-color was popularized by Black Hills gold, which is
made in South Dakota. The use of three colors tends to make designs
more distinct. Whether it is radiant yellow, polished white, or a
shade in between, the natural characteristic of gold is that it
shines brightly in any hue and looks exquisite in every ray of
light.
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